Queen Elizabeth 2, or QE2 as she is more familiarly known, was launched in
1967 and commenced commercial service in 1969. In August 1999, soon after
her 30th birthday, my wife and I sailed on her again, our fourth time.
Previous voyages were cruises to the Caribbean, to West Africa and to Bermuda.
However, this voyage was to be different _ a crossing rather than a cruise.
What differences would we find? Would the Queen seem changed? Would the staff
behave differently? All would be revealed as we left New York on the warm
and sunny afternoon of August 16.
Boarding proceeded without a flaw. Courtesy of Cunard Line, we had spent the
previous night in a New York Hotel to avoid the overnight flight from
Arizona. From the hotel bus, we entered the pre-boarding area of the pier, our papers
were inspected, credit card imprint taken and a steward/escort assigned to
take us to our cabin. Within an hour, our luggage was delivered and we settled
into cabin 3175 on 3 Deck.
Ahead of us was a six-day crossing of the Atlantic Ocean
to Southampton in England. But first things first! We had not had lunch and so
we headed to the Queen's Room for the traditional white-glove afternoon tea. A
variety of small sandwiches and cakes accompanied by a choice of teas or
coffee was served by friendly waiters while light classical music filled in
the background. To us, the ship already had the British touch we remembered and
we were happy.
Under a clear sky and in warm sunshine, the QE2 surrounded by many small
boats carrying interested onlookers, moved out from the pier into the Hudson
River.
With a major refurbishment scheduled for the end of 1999, it was possible
that QE2 could be looking somewhat tired. And there were areas that were
obviously in need of urgent repair - carpet on stairs worn in a few places, soiled
patches, couches with collapsed cushions, marks on walls and faded curtains. But the
overall impression was of successful maintenance during the four years since
her last and famously disastrous overhaul.
The hotel staff were diligent in their cleaning, straightening and tidying. The areas in need of attention were not significant enough to spoil the overall impression of an elegantly mature
lady of the sea.
Dining
As we were located in a "C" class cabin, we were to dine in the Caronia
Restaurant. The eating situation on QE2 can be confusing to those who have
not travelled on her. It is the only vestige of class distinction at sea.
If you are fortunate enough, and wealthy enough to afford a suite, you will dine in the
Queens Grill and be welcome in an exclusive lounge and bar.
If deluxe accommodation is within your means, either the Princess or Britannia Grill will welcome you at mealtime. Other cabins are considered first class and allow the occupants to dine in the Caronia Restaurant while the remainder of passengers dine in the Mauretania Restaurant.
The last of these restaurants is the only one to have two sittings. To add to the confusion, during recent years the names and locations of two of the restaurants have changed. When we last sailed on QE2, the Caronia was above the Mauretania and on the Upper Deck. Now they are
reversed and the Caronia is on the Quarter Deck.
Our table for two in the Caronia Restaurant was close to a large picture window. Two waiters, a charming young lady from Australia and a personable young man from Singapore, attended to us. There were no busboys in this restaurant, only in
the Mauretania Restaurant.
The two waiters were responsible for the eating pleasure of 20 passengers, a formidable task that they handled with elegance and expertise. Their task was made easier by the single seating arrangement as dinner could be taken anytime from 6.45pm - 9 pm. So there was no great rush of hungry passengers when the doors to the dining room opened. The wine
stewardess was from Poland and she quietly and efficiently attended to our drinking needs. Our table was reserved for us for all three meals. Table service was immaculate. Fresh flowers, white table linen, bone china, sparkling crystal and shining silver complemented delicious food freshly plated and brought to
the table piping hot. Sadly, tableside cooking of desserts was missing.
The menus contained sufficient choices for the most discerning diner and the portions
were adequate and tastefully arranged on the plate. There were special choices
for those desirous of reducing calorie and sugar intake. We had no complaints
about the Caronia Restaurant, only compliments for all who worked there. During
the latest refit, the restaurant has been totally redecorated. The colour
scheme is now terra cotta and peach. A new domed ceiling has been installed along
with mahogany wall panels. New wooden dining chairs and overhead chandeliers
complete the effect.
Cabin
Our cabin selection was probably not the best. Situated far aft on 3 Deck,
it barely fulfilled the criteria for a first class cabin. Its shape was
strange, like many of the cabins on QE2. The entrance door opened directly onto the bedroom
containing two single beds separated by a chest of drawers.
On the left was
a tiny bathroom (perhaps the smallest we have ever had at sea!). On the right
of the bed area, a long, narrow corridor lined by four ample closets, led to a
small sitting area with another chest of drawers and the porthole that defined our
cabin as of the "outside" variety. However, the daylight that entered there did
not penetrate to the sleeping area and could not be enjoyed while in bed! Thus
we were denied the pleasure of sipping early morning tea in bed while watching
the sea slide by.
Despite this disappointment, we were pleased with our cabin
attendant who was from the Philippines. He kept everything spic and span.
He catered to our every wish and was very pleasant. Like our table stewards, he
learned our names very quickly and addressed us formally every time we met.
No request from us was too much for him.
Daily routine
With no interruption from ports-of-call, we quickly fell into a daily
routine of activities. The Cruise Department offered much in the way of diversions, but
there was no pressure to join in. Many chose to wile away the hours with a
favourite book or a nap in a quiet corner of one of the many lounges. For
others,
there were lectures, classes, games on deck, demonstrations and movies.
The after-dinner entertainment was mediocre and unremarkable. The Gershwin music
theme of the crossing was underdeveloped and almost passed without
recognition. This was a disappointment for many Gershwin fans. For me, the
favourite location was the superb maritime bookshop and library on Quarter
Deck.
The three best events were lectures given my a marine interior design
enthusiast from the famous Sotheby's Auction House, lectures given by the
Senior Co-pilot of British Airways Concorde program and the passenger trivia
quiz. For exercise, I walked the Boat Deck in the morning. To make up for
the lost weight, I took afternoon tea in the Queens Room!
The first two days out from New York were mild and sunny. We were able to
take full advantage of the open decks and fresh sea air. I still find it
disappointing that Cunard has not replaced the ugly aluminium and plastic deck chairs with
the traditional padded teak variety.
As we headed further east, the daytime temperatures fell and we confronted some storms. With her liner bow, stabilisers and deep draft, the QE2 took the waves in her stride just as an Atlantic liner should. The average speed for the crossing was 25.1 knots ( a reduction of 2.3
knots since the crossing time has been lengthened), but I noted on the cabin
TV speeds in excess of 26 knots for hours on end.
At one stage, we met rough seas and a Force 8 gale. This is equivalent to a head-on wind velocity of 35 knots and so, combined with the shipâs forward motion, gusts of over 60 knots were lashing the decks. Apart from keeping the passengers indoors, the Queen continued on
course, unruffled. The winds abated and the seas calmed for our last day
on board.
Final day
During the early hours of the sixth morning, we took on the Solent
pilot and were tied up at Southampton by sunrise. Disembarkation was simple and trouble free. British Immigration and Customs formalities had been handled by officials on board during the crossing.
With our luggage collected on the previous evening, all we had to do was have
breakfast in the Caronia Restaurant and then wait in one of the lounges until our
group number was called. We had arranged for a rental car to be available on the
pier and we headed off for our tour of Scotland by 9 am. Others had elected to
take the "fast track", which meant that they would be in the first group going
ashore, but would have to handle their own luggage. Others boarded coaches or
a version of the Oriental Express for the journey to London.
Verdict
Now to answer the question posed at the beginning - was it a cruise or a
crossing? Truthfully, I found little difference from our previous times on
the QE2. There was more formality - four formal nights. Otherwise, we could have been
on a cruise with six days at sea between ports.
The staff did not share my
view. Talking with members of the Cruise Department, I learned of harder work for
them with the passengers on board all day, every day, with a full entertainment
program and little time for themselves. They spoke of the history and
tradition of a crossing and how they tried to re-inforce these with the passengers. They
noticed less tiredness and more camaraderie among the passengers.
Whether it is for a crossing or a cruise, I will continue to enjoy my days
aboard QE2 and I am looking forward to the launch of her running mate, the QM2,
said to be another true Atlantic liner.
The QE2
